8 September 2021

Dermatologist Clinics BioMi Vita Inga Kozyrenko – about how to care for problem skin and which brands you can trust.

Inga Kozyrenko

Inga Kozyrenko

dermatologist, cosmetologist and pediatric trichologist

When to start using cosmetics?

Taking care of your skin is important from infancy. At a very early age, it must be moisturized, and in winter, it is imperative to apply a greasy cream on the cheeks, the area around the mouth and nose in order to avoid chapping and a decrease in local immunity (for more information about specific products, read link).

Children who have entered puberty also need care cosmetics. Look not at age, but at clinical manifestations: for example, if you notice that a 9-10 year old child has comedones or excessive greasiness of the skin, first of all, choose a high-quality cleanser for him.

What exactly should teenagers use?

In addition to cleansing, if necessary, I advise products in sticks with a high acid content, which must be applied locally (!) On acne, thereby drying them out. Another option is to use 2% salicylic alcohol for this purpose. If a teenager has up to five rashes on the face, then this is a mild acne disease, and with proper care and nutritional control, parents and a child can cope with this problem on their own. If there are a lot of rashes, and they become deep, painful, swelling, redness appear, spread to the chest, neck, back, you must definitely go to a dermatologist.

Other teenage facial cosmetics: Moisturizing emulsions and non-fat creams – I recommend applying them in the morning and in the evening. If your teen has oily skin and is active, he needs a toner to apply after cleansing. Thermal water can be used.

I note that both girls and boys need to take care of their skin. There is no such thing as exclusively teenage makeup for girls.

I also advise teenagers to use clay-based cleansing masks once a week. Apply them to the skin, avoiding the areas around the eyes and lips. If the child does not have (!) Acne, scrubs with small exfoliating particles are allowed twice a week.

I use Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask myself. She is great for cleansing and refreshing the face – a good example of Korean cosmetics for teenagers.

How to choose cosmetics?

Always read the makeup when choosing teen face makeup. If this is a cleanser, then you need to understand which component is used to cleanse the skin. If the basis is a large amount of alcohols (they are at the top of the list), then such cosmetics will not work for a teenager, as it will dry out the skin, which will lead to the production of even more sebum (and this is one of the main problems at this age). Ideally, if there are acids among the components: salicylic, almond, lactic, glycolic. For an adult, the content of glycolic acid in the product should not exceed 5%. For a teenager – 3-5%.

Another category is children with atopic dermatitis who need emollients, light moisturizers in the form of foams and emulsions that will clear the skin and will not clog pores.

More recommendations for adolescents: do not “comb” the places where inflammatory elements arise, avoid oils and fats in the compositions of the products, follow the diet (there is less fast food and sweets), control their emotional state (in some adolescents, acne develops against the background of stress ), do not abuse hormonal ointments (they can also provoke acne) and be examined by a specialist.

When choosing teenage skincare, pay attention to pharmacy brands (for example, La Roche-Posay, Vichy). Uriage has a good series for Iseac problem skin. I also like the SpaTeen series from the Pevonia Botanica brand. It contains tonics, cleansers, concentrates for application to problem areas. The basis of all formulations is water, glycerin (which protects against excessive moisture loss), hyaluronic acid (for more details, see link), anti-inflammatory components (extracts of calendula, chamomile, aloe).