FFrench manicure was invented back in the 70s, but this technique is still one of the most popular. Angelica Trukhina, a master of the Wax Detox Bar beauty salon, told how to prepare nails for a service jacket, which varnishes to use and how to diversify the classic design.
Before performing a French manicure, you need to prepare the nail plate.
If a french manicure will be performed with gel or gel polish, then first of all you need to degrease the nails well and then apply a bond or primer – they will ensure a strong adhesion of the nail to the coating. If the technique is performed with ordinary varnish, it will be enough only to degrease the nails and apply the base. This should be done even before applying light natural shades – the base coat will help align the nail plate and prolong the durability of the manicure.
French manicure requires well-groomed nails and cuticles.
This applies not only to a jacket, but also to any other coating – we always start with a manicure. Any kind will do – classic, European or nail file, it all depends on the client’s wishes. In the salon we use the file technique: this type of manicure is less traumatic and safer, because a new file and buff are used for each client.
The classic jacket is made with varnishes in natural shades.
For the hole, a classic dense white color is taken – for example, Polar from Luxio. And as a backing, we have two of the most popular shades: Delicate and Blush. The first is a pale pink shade, and the second is closer to the skin color, beige and pink. But, of course, before coating, we always apply several shades to the client to see which one is perfect.
Any nail shape is suitable for modern French manicure.
It depends on the client’s wishes – someone is used only to the “soft square” shape, while someone loves the almond-shaped one. There was a time when a jacket was carried out only on a rectangular shape, but now any will do – even a round one. But with the length it is better not to be zealous – on long nails, French manicure does not look very aesthetically pleasing, it is better to perform this technique on nails of medium or short length.
French “smile” can also be of different shapes.
The bend or the so-called “smile” of the jacket can be straight or with a deeper bend. With the help of a type of French manicure, you can visually improve the shape of the nail – for example, a deep “smile” lengthens a too small plate. By the way, in the same case, I advise you to use dense, not translucent shades – they will cover the too small nail plate and paint over the free edge.
The perfect jacket can be done not only with a special brush.
I most often paint a jacket with a separate thin brush, but you can also use a “native” varnish brush. Of course, there are stencils and various improvised means for drawing a hole, but those who are trying to make a jacket on their own resort to their help – not a single qualified master uses them.
Use different colors to add variety to your French manicure.
Of course, the classic jacket with natural shades is still considered the most popular, but if you are bored with it, there are a lot of options to diversify it. For example, you can highlight the nail hole in a different color – black or red, or combine two shades on the hole at once – make half pink, half white. By the way, our salon recently has a new collection of Luxio varnishes with shades for both classic French (for example, Haven or Bossy), and for a bright color. There is also a double jacket – it is drawn with several stripes, most often two. But I do not advise combining more than three colors in French manicure – it does not look very harmonious.
Another version of the jacket that has become a classic is the moon manicure.
The technique is used the same as in French manicure, but the nail hole highlights in a different color (most often white varnish is used) or does not stain. I advise you to take a dense varnish so that the line of the hole is clear – a translucent varnish will not give the desired effect.
Use glitter polishes to add variety to your classic French manicure.
But keep in mind that you won’t be able to clearly highlight the free edge of the nail with a polish with coarse shine. Even if the glitter is small, the pigment must be sufficiently saturated, otherwise it will be problematic to draw a “smile”. In order not to suffer with clear lines, I advise you to stretch the sparkles – apply a dense layer on the free edge and make an ombre effect.
An up-to-date new version of the classic French manicure – “American French”.
In this case, the free edge is not highlighted with a clear line, but shaded – for this, either a sponge or an airbrush is used. For this type of jacket, the density of the varnish is no longer important, so you can safely use translucent milky shades – for example, warm beige Shy or “porcelain” Coy.