Nose in the wind: travel-inspired fragrances


WITHlush basil lemonade splashed with orange juice, a wave of tropical fruits crashing against a pond of earthy patchouli and other summer notes in travel-inspired fragrances: check out the new collection of perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova.

Toilet water Marrakech Intense, Aesop

In more than thirty years, the Australian botanical brand Aesop has released dozens of cosmetics, shiny and just good – and only four fragrances (one of them, Mystra, has been discontinued). The most favored by criticism is Marrakech – an accurate sketch of an eastern city scorched by the sun and hot breath of the desert: a strong spirit of cloves and cardamom floats over the markets, fragrant herbs decay in sandalwood chests, resin smokes in bronze smokers.

6,000 RUB for 50 ml, TSUM

Eau de toilette Paris-Deauville, Chanel

The new collection Les Eaux de Chanel is a set of watercolor postcards from the seaside cities where Gabrielle Chanel loved to visit. Paris-Deauville is louder than the rest, and perhaps more important: it was in Deauville, the bourgeois capital of Normandy, that the couturier opened her first boutique, displaying sailor suits, jockey jackets and light raincoats for evening walks along the sea in the windows on the rue of Gonto-Biron. Chanel believed that dressing in the resort Deauville in the fashion of Paris was stupid: “Women sit at the races dressed up, like the ladies of the 15th century at knightly tournaments,” she told friends with a laugh. And she made other fashion adapted for leisure. Paris-Deauville – fresh basil lemonade with orange juice splashed in the same vein of spa bliss and seaside simplicity.

9,408 p. for 125 ml, Chanel perfume and cosmetic boutiques

Eau de parfum Udaipur, Etro

Udaipur is a city in the Indian state of Rajasthan, famous for its lakes and the Maharaj palaces surrounding them. It is called “white”: most of the summer mansions, in particular the famous Lake Palace, are faced with light stone – limestone, tuff or marble. White and white and in that imaginary Udaipur, which is collected by the Etro brand – Lake Pichola boils with jasmine foam, rice scattered on the altars shines with a mica sheen, milk foam puffs on an ice lassi.

12 800 RUR for 100 ml, Articoli stores

Eau de parfum Brumes de Khao-Sok, Ella K Parfums

Ella K is the new brand of Sonia Constant, a perfumer whose work we are already familiar with: Constant, among other things, collected the peony Fleur Musc for Her, Narciso Rodriguez and the wonderful rosé champagne Dom Rosa for Les Liquides Imaginaires. The fragrances of her own line are inspired by travel, but not everyone recognizes African places of power and distant Asian resorts in the names of perfumes – the geography of Constant is diverse and non-obvious. Brumes de Khao-Sok, for example, smells of warm and humid fog in the Khao Sok forest reserve in southern Thailand, tropical flowers, a green sponge of moss, condensation on damp branches.

17 800 RUB for 70 ml, TSUM

Eau de parfum Florentina, Sylvaine Delacourte Paris

The Sylvaine Delacourt brand is relatively new, and arrived in Russia just a couple of months ago. In the past, Sylvain Delacourt was the creative director of Guerlain, and no other fragrance of her own brand emphasizes the Frenchwoman’s connection with the legendary house as brightly as Florentina – a classic powdery iris in the spirit of Guerlain’s Météorites, soft, crumbly, swan. Perhaps not the most revolutionary – there are the more avant-garde Helicriss and Smeraldo in the collection, but the most elegant of them all.

From 8 080 rub. for 100 ml, Rive Gauche stores

Eau de parfum Mudejar, Majda Bekkali

Mudejar (pronounced with an emphasis on the second syllable) is a Spanish architectural style at the junction of Gothic and Moorish art: here there are colored tiles, pointed arches, and shady courtyards around which other rooms are grouped. We saw Mudejar in Game of Thrones – Dorn’s palace scenes were filmed in the Seville Alcazar, an ancient Moorish fort. And now we can smell it: Mudejar by Majda Bekkali smells of bitter citruses, currants and heated metal of elegant forging in a garden hidden from immodest eyes.

15,200 RUB for 120 ml, Articoli in the “Smolensky Passage”

Eau de parfum Tamarindo, Memo Paris

While Central America was preoccupied with civil wars, Costa Rica – the first country in the world to officially disband an army – studied mosses and rescued sea turtles. Here, in fact, ecotourism was invented – it was invented by American hippies who moved here in the 1970s and were not alien to specious money-grubbing. Backpackers and die-hard bird watchers spent the night in the first eco-lodges, now American millionaires follow the same routes in the company of Julia Roberts and Woody Harrelson, and eco-lodges have become more decent. So Tamarindo, the new Memo scent named after a Costa Rican town in the Pacific Ocean, feels chic and tramp at the same time: a wave of tropical fruits crashes against a pond of muddy, earthy patchouli.

18 600 RUB for 75 ml, Molecule Project boutiques