Tfrom a specialist – about the means that have been exciting the beauty world for several years.
The microneedle patch is what the beauty world has received as a bonus to global discoveries in the field of microneedle therapy. Reducing puffiness, dark circles under the eyes, moisturizing the skin is certainly great, but scientists working in this field are looking further. V
Who develops microneedle patches and how?
“In fact, there are now only three factories in the world for the production of cosmetic microneedle patches with hyaluronic acid: in South Korea, Japan (which operates mainly in the Asian market and in Europe, it is represented by no more than three companies, including Nishi) and Micronidl Industrial. which, in fact, produces custom patches for BLÓM, ”says Vasily Zvezdin, a Skolkovo resident and co-founder of the beauty startup BLÓM. Now the brand’s assortment includes two types of patches with microneedles: with hyaluronic acid and caffeine in the composition. The former are designed to moisturize the skin and increase the production of its own collagen, while the latter are designed to eliminate swelling. BLÓM has already stood out in the beauty market for several reasons. Firstly, the DDMN (Detachable Dissolving Microneedles) microneedle platform, which underlies the patches, was developed in Russia (a few years ago the company received
The most popular products in this category are also represented by the brands Librederm and Vichy. The range of brands includes patches based on bio-soluble low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
How do patches work?
In all cases, the microneedles in the patches penetrate the skin and begin to dissolve. For example, on the surface of Librederm filler patches there are 130 microneedles of crystallized hyaluronic acid (read the BeautyHack editorial review about the product
BLÓM has a different idea: manufacturers have specially designed patches with a holographic effect in accordance with the best insta trends. The product contains two types of hyaluronic acid and one water-soluble asset. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) is located at the tip with the active component and dissolves much faster, and closer to the base is a “hyaluronic acid” with a molecular weight of 400 kDa.
Are microneedle patches cumulative?
“The key point is that the main task of microneedles with hyaluronic acid is to reach the basal layer between the dermis and epidermis and provide its biochemical correction through mechanical action and nutrition (here hyaluronic acid acts as a“ food ”for cells). Biochemical correction should take at least 20 days. And if you remember that the stratum corneum is formed for 28 days, then the final effect of the biochemical correction will be noticeable in 40 days, ”explains Vasily. “The worse the condition of the epidermal layer of the skin and microcirculation, the greater the chance to see the wow effect. If you are a 19-year-old makeup artist with freshly chipped skin, the chance is zero. ” If we are talking about reducing edema with patches, then Vasily advises to first identify their cause: “An instant effect is possible if the pathogenesis of edema is associated with a violation of local microcirculation. But by no means in case of chronic kidney disease and dysmetabolic disorders. “