everything you wanted to know


Tfrom a specialist – about the means that have been exciting the beauty world for several years.

The microneedle patch is what the beauty world has received as a bonus to global discoveries in the field of microneedle therapy. Reducing puffiness, dark circles under the eyes, moisturizing the skin is certainly great, but scientists working in this field are looking further. V this A video posted to YouTube in 2017 reveals how they plan to use microneedle patches to administer flu vaccines. To vaccinate the patch, you just need to stick it to your hand. The goal is to make vaccination more understandable, accessible and safe for humans. The same technology begins to be used for the administration of drugs to diabetics. And finally, microneedling is like a cosmetic anti-age procedure, during which a specialist, using a mesoscooter with the finest needles, injects preparations (moisturizing or whitening serums, vitamin cocktails, etc.) under the skin. The difference between such professional care and patches is that the latter immediately contain the necessary components in the needles (most often it is hyaluronic acid, caffeine, salicylic acid). You just need to fix them on the skin.

Who develops microneedle patches and how?

“In fact, there are now only three factories in the world for the production of cosmetic microneedle patches with hyaluronic acid: in South Korea, Japan (which operates mainly in the Asian market and in Europe, it is represented by no more than three companies, including Nishi) and Micronidl Industrial. which, in fact, produces custom patches for BLÓM, ”says Vasily Zvezdin, a Skolkovo resident and co-founder of the beauty startup BLÓM. Now the brand’s assortment includes two types of patches with microneedles: with hyaluronic acid and caffeine in the composition. The former are designed to moisturize the skin and increase the production of its own collagen, while the latter are designed to eliminate swelling. BLÓM has already stood out in the beauty market for several reasons. Firstly, the DDMN (Detachable Dissolving Microneedles) microneedle platform, which underlies the patches, was developed in Russia (a few years ago the company received patent), and a plant for the production of funds is also located in Russia. Secondly, the microneedles on the patches enter the epidermis to the basement membrane, delivering active components there. This allows you to reduce the time of using patches to 25 minutes, versus 2-4 hours, which are usual for this category of funds. Vasily explains that most of the other patches with microneedles existing on the Russian market are most often based on the microtyps platform (these are, in fact, not needles, but sharp droplets). Professor Hyungil Jung is behind their development. Regardless of where they are finally packaged and who imports them, they are manufactured at JuVic Biotech Co’s plant in South Korea.

The most popular products in this category are also represented by the brands Librederm and Vichy. The range of brands includes patches based on bio-soluble low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

How do patches work?

In all cases, the microneedles in the patches penetrate the skin and begin to dissolve. For example, on the surface of Librederm filler patches there are 130 microneedles of crystallized hyaluronic acid (read the BeautyHack editorial review about the product here). Accordingly, in a pair – 260 microneedles. “During the application of the patches, the microneedles painlessly pierce the surface layer of the skin, allowing the hyaluronic acid to penetrate the skin to a depth of 350 microns. Hyaluronic acid, getting into the deep layers of the skin, acts on fibroblasts. This stimulates collagen synthesis, improves skin elasticity and tone. To achieve a visible rejuvenating result, I recommend using the patches 1-2 times a week for at least a month, ”explains Lyudmila Krinitsina, an expert at the Librederm international laboratory. It should be borne in mind that filler patches with microneedles are not the tools that you can use on the run: microneedles begin to dissolve after 30 minutes, and the whole process takes 3-4 hours. A similar story is with Vichy’s Liftactiv patches – 4 hours for the microneedles (320 needles – in a pair) to dissolve in the skin. Therefore, the brand’s medical expert Ekaterina Turubara advises to apply the product at night: “Before and after using the patches, it is necessary to apply an eye contour cream with a composition corresponding to the condition of the skin in this area (from dark circles, from puffiness, from wrinkles, etc.)” … It’s great that both brands made the patches as transparent as possible – they are almost invisible on the skin.

BLÓM has a different idea: manufacturers have specially designed patches with a holographic effect in accordance with the best insta trends. The product contains two types of hyaluronic acid and one water-soluble asset. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) is located at the tip with the active component and dissolves much faster, and closer to the base is a “hyaluronic acid” with a molecular weight of 400 kDa.

Are microneedle patches cumulative?

“The key point is that the main task of microneedles with hyaluronic acid is to reach the basal layer between the dermis and epidermis and provide its biochemical correction through mechanical action and nutrition (here hyaluronic acid acts as a“ food ”for cells). Biochemical correction should take at least 20 days. And if you remember that the stratum corneum is formed for 28 days, then the final effect of the biochemical correction will be noticeable in 40 days, ”explains Vasily. “The worse the condition of the epidermal layer of the skin and microcirculation, the greater the chance to see the wow effect. If you are a 19-year-old makeup artist with freshly chipped skin, the chance is zero. ” If we are talking about reducing edema with patches, then Vasily advises to first identify their cause: “An instant effect is possible if the pathogenesis of edema is associated with a violation of local microcirculation. But by no means in case of chronic kidney disease and dysmetabolic disorders. “