9 September 2021




Reditor Natalia Kapitsa on effective remedies for oily skin, acid peels and laser resurfacing procedure without damaging the skin.

On the western front….

I have oily skin. No, not like that: VERY oily. Two hours after applying cosmetics (unless, of course, you take action), it begins to actively shine in the T-zone. And this is not a delicate shine, like from a highlighter, giving the face a rested look. Rather, it has the opposite effect – it seems that you just ran a cross, 10 km long, and forgot to wash after that.

At the age of 15, in addition to hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands, acne was my constant companion. They seemed to reproduce by “budding” – new “enemies” appeared every day. The skin reacted to everything: candy eaten, fried potatoes and ignored cleansing (I confess, I was a sinner). True, then I did not in any way associate these problems with improper nutrition. To be fair: my face looked like one big pimple. Acne was on the cheeks (closer to the ears) and in the forehead.

One day before the graduation concert at the choreographic school, my mother signed me up to see a beautician. After doing a mechanical cleaning, Aesculapius prescribed a “chatterbox” consisting of antibiotics. It was a mixture of tetracycline, erythromycin, baby powder, and hydrogen peroxide. After two weeks, the face looked great – not a single pimple and black dot. The fact is that the listed drugs have good bacteriostatic properties – they inhibit the chemotaxis of neutrophils and reduce the concentration of fatty acids. Antibiotics are accumulated in the sebaceous glands and have high antibacterial activity.

It would seem that the problem has been resolved. It is not that simple! Doctors sometimes joke: “When antibiotics are prescribed to treat acne, it is not clear who will die faster: the patient or the pimple.” Antibiotics greatly reduce immunity (when applied externally – local), negatively affect the liver, gastrointestinal tract and can cause allergies. After drug withdrawal, in 30% of cases, acne returns and becomes even more pronounced.

This did not happen to me.

After three months of treatment, I stopped using the antibiotic “lotion”. Single acne has returned. At the age of 17, when hormonal changes in the body were successfully completed, they “made a pen”.

Now I am 33. And my oily skin still needs a lot of care. Much has changed since puberty, including the approach to acne treatment. Today, cosmetologists approach therapy in a complex way: they change their diet, use laser techniques, prescribe vitamins and tests, and carefully select care. I’ll tell you what helps me to fight oily shine and do without foundation.

Resurfacing without superficial damage to the skin

The procedure is good because it solves several problems at once: it normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands, reduces the visible manifestation of pores, fights post-acne marks, and has a lifting effect.

This type of resurfacing (there are others) is performed under local anesthesia. But even this does not guarantee a complete absence of unpleasant sensations – a slight tingling and burning sensation accompany all 30 minutes (spoiler: discomfort justifies itself as a result 100%).

A laser beam with a certain wavelength evaporates water (due to this, a peeling effect is achieved) and selectively destroys collagen fibers (a cosmetologist makes a “mesh” with a laser). The latter begin to actively recover (new collagen is synthesized), making the skin more elastic and taut. My beautician uses a CO2 laser. But you can do grinding on other devices. The rehabilitation period is 10-14 days.

Immediately after the procedure, the face looks red and swells a little. It seems like you’ve just been whipped with nettles (just kidding). Mild swelling may persist for several days. But the redness subsides after 3-4 hours. During the rehabilitation period, you need to refuse to visit the bathhouse, pool, sauna, solarium, limit physical activity and be sure to use an SPF cream. Care can be left as usual.

Peelings

Peeling for me is an obligatory stage of leaving. Without them, white light is not nice to me (or, at least, it is not so beautiful). For a long time it was believed that peels can be done only in the autumn-winter period. Following this logic, this procedure is not available for residents of Dubai and other hot countries. Available, and how! However, after it you need to follow the “safety precautions”, protecting the skin from UV (hello, SPF 50 every 40 minutes).

In winter, I undergo a course of retinol peeling (also called yellow peeling). It is not suitable for those who plan to become a mother in the next six months. It has been proven that retinoids have teratogenic properties and can negatively affect the formation of the fetus. They penetrate cell membranes, influencing the transfer of genetic chains from mother to baby. If you are not pregnant and do not plan to do so in the near future, the median retinol peel is not dangerous.

Just as in the case of resurfacing, you will have to suffer a little during the procedure. After applying the composition, the face burns for about 40 minutes. After three days, the skin begins to actively peel off. So active that others throw sympathetic glances. But after two weeks you will not recognize your face: it will be smooth, even, without a single speck and oily sheen.

Spring is the time for surface peeling with lactic acid. It works at the level of the epidermis, promoting skin renewal and the active division of new cells – just what the doctor ordered.

Care

I got older, smarter, and now I do not ignore cleansing. First, I wash off the makeup with milk (my favorite is Precision Lait Confort by Chanel). Then I wash my face using Kiehl’s Calendula Foam and let my skin dry well. And after that I apply an express peeling for daily use of Beauty Style.

This remedy was advised to me by a cosmetologist. I don’t know how I used to live without him. Apply to the skin with a cotton pad, massage for 30 seconds and then rinse off with water. After two weeks of conscientious use of the product, the condition of the skin becomes much better. Peeling, by the way, is produced in Russia – they can! It used to be the turn of a refreshing lotion that shrinks pores and a moisturizer.

Once a week, I use the GlamGlow White Clay & Caustic Soda Cleansing Mask. Before visiting the bath, I apply a soft exfoliating gel Ultra Gentle Exfoliating Gel, Ultraceuticals with salicylic and lactic acid. It can be applied once a week – it gives amazing results.

I have in my arsenal and SOS-tool – Sudokrem. Pharmacy “happiness” based on zinc oxide removes redness, irritation and inflammation within a few hours after application. Additional components: cinnamite – substances with antifungal properties, lanolin, soothing the skin, benzoate – promotes skin regeneration and epithelial growth. Sudokrem is good for eczema, sunburn, abrasions, inflammatory elements on the skin.

Nutrition

It is impossible to get rid of acne and normalize the work of the sebaceous glands only by using products for external use. The most common cause of rashes and oily sheen inside. Cosmetologists have long been working in tandem with endocrinologists and nutritionists. If your hormones are normal and the body receives a sufficient amount of vitamins, micro- and macroelements, the specialist will definitely pay attention to the diet.

My body reacts normally to sweets – a piece of cake does not affect either weight or waist volume. But the face in response to such a “guest” can say hello to inflammatory “enemy objects”.

For owners of oily skin, there are special diets: they exclude from the diet all foods that provoke hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands (salty, fatty, frying, flour, spicy and sweet). Fast food and soda are also tough taboos.

With acne, the diet must necessarily contain foods containing B vitamins, zinc and Omega-3 fatty acids: grains, beans, buckwheat, nuts, herbs, avocados, unrefined vegetable oils, liver.

It is better to refuse from the beloved by many “milk”. First, it retains water. And secondly, dairy products contain a lot of proteins that stimulate the production of steroid hormones. Hormonal imbalance immediately affects the condition of the skin.

For coffee lovers, I also have bad news: caffeine stimulates the production of cortisol, the stress hormone. In response to an increase in its level, the skin can “please” with rashes. This does not mean that you need to give it up completely. Limit yourself to a few cups a week.

And the last thing. One of the causes of facial acne is a deficiency of vitamins A, D and iron. Get tested!