VRach-dermatologist Viktoria Britko told why blackheads appear, is it possible to get rid of them forever and what products are suitable for oily skin care.
Reasons for the appearance of black dots
Owners of oily skin know firsthand what black dots are – most often they appear in the problem T-zone: on the nose, cheeks, chin and forehead. The reason is simple: there are many sebaceous glands in these areas, the secretion of which produces sebum. Excess sebum mixes with dust, dirt, dead cells and clogs the glands, forming “plugs”. Under the influence of O2, they oxidize and darken. These are comedones.
They are of two types: open – black dots and closed – white subcutaneous formations. The sebaceous glands are most active during hormonal changes in the body. For this reason, adolescents of the pubertal period – 12-13 years old – most often suffer from them. With age, the secretion of sebum decreases – closer to 40, almost all skin tends to a normal type. But sometimes black dots are formed at 50.
The reasons for their appearance are different: from insufficient cleansing to “wrong” cosmetics with comedogenic ingredients in the composition. Often the skin suffers from improper nutrition – an excess of carbohydrates and sugar in the diet, disruption of the gastrointestinal tract and even changes in climatic conditions. It is better to select the method of dealing with comedones after consulting a specialist and establishing the cause.
Treatments for dealing with blackheads
It is impossible to get rid of blackheads once and for all – do not believe the empty promises of cosmetics manufacturers and some clinics. All procedures have a temporary effect. Over time, the secretion of the sebaceous glands again accumulates in the pores – black dots appear. With the right care and makeup, comedones form less frequently and more slowly.
The most important rule for owners of oily skin is thorough cleansing. It should take place in several stages.
For washing, products with glycolic acid in the composition are perfect – they provide a light peeling effect and chemically dissolve the secretion of the sebaceous gland, temporarily eliminating open comedones, for toning – with calendula, chamomile or aloe extract.
Once a week at home, you can do surface peels with fruit acids (enzyme, ANA), in salons and medical centers, cosmetologists-aesthetists do almond, milk and other types of peelings. They should be carried out by a specialist. Masks will help you quickly get rid of black spots on the nose (I repeat: remove it for a while). As a rule, they contain different types of clays, algae extracts, fruit acids, exfoliating particles (you can read about the best masks against blackheads according to the editors of BeautyHack
When choosing a foundation, pay attention to the composition. The most comedogenic components: emulsifiers – triglycerides (triglyceride), myristates (myristates), palmitates (palmitates), emollients – lanolin and its derivatives (Acetylated lanolin alcohol, Anhydrous lanolin, Acetlyated Lanolin, PEG 16 Lanolin).
Oils that provoke clogged pores: cocoa butter, avocado, wheat germ, peach seed, flaxseed, soybean. Non-comedogenic oils include: safflower, jojoba, corn oil, grape seed oil, mink oil, sunflower oil.
Great if the foundation is water-based, lightweight and non-comedogenic.
Effective procedures that help get rid of blackheads: ultrasonic face cleansing, a course of superficial chemical peels. Median (retinol, trichloroacetic acid peels) are carried out only in the autumn-winter period.
An excellent result is shown by laser procedures that have a complex effect on the skin. For example, resurfacing without damaging the upper layer of the skin Clear lift. In addition to the pronounced lifting effect, the procedure fights against enlarged pores and expression lines. The full course consists of 4-7 sessions.
For those who suffer from pigmentation, dilated blood vessels and pores, a course of phototherapy is recommended. During the procedure, pulsed pulse light is exposed to melanin, vascular oxyhemoglobin, collagen in the upper layers of the dermis. This improves the complexion and reduces the visible appearance of pores.
The best remedies for blackheads
Mask against acne and blackheads, Riche Cosmetics
The choice of the dermatologist-cosmetologist of the Clinic of German Medical Technologies GMTClinic Angelica Uzhva
It is a Russian brand with organic products in trendy compact packages. I recommend a mask to cleanse pores, remove blackheads and heal minor inflammations and traces of acne (for more details about the causes of acne, we wrote
Price on request
Mask Ultra Clear Purifying Mask, Ultraceuticals
Choice of BeautyHack Editor-in-Chief Karina Andreeva
Despite the fact that the mask is intended for oily and problem skin, without much difficulty it cleared my normal, but prone to dryness (the expected peeling did not occur afterwards!). In ten minutes, the mask, like a magnet, draws out the dirt from the pores (it got rid of blackheads especially well thanks to the salicylic acid in the composition).
Surprisingly, the product does not dehydrate the skin, it looks even more hydrated after use. I think the point is in the right mix of components: in addition to clay, the mask contains vitamins (niacyamide, provitamins C and E), BHA and antioxidants, extracts of clove, sandalwood and eucalyptus oil. I will use it 1-2 times a month!
Price: 5 500 rub.
Scrubbing sticks against blackheads, TSURURI
Choice of the senior editor of BeautyHack Anastasia Speranskaya
One glance at the bright packaging of scrubbing sticks is enough – and you are immediately transported to a Japanese cosmetics store, where everything is so incomprehensible, but interesting. And after using it, you start to think – why didn’t anyone figure it out before? Sticks are intended for all those who have ever cursed their T-zone – because of blackheads, peeling, oily sheen or inflammation. The novelty deals with this in no time.
It contains heavy artillery against deep pollution: Moroccan volcanic clay ghassoul (mined in Morocco), white clay kaolin, charcoal and sea silt. Together they fight against dirt, blackheads and other imperfections that make us choose a thicker concealer for this area. To use is as easy as shelling pears: wet the tip of the stick with water and massage the problem areas.
This is a great option for those with sensitive skin who do not want to deal with scrubs. The ingredients include a complex of argan, macadamia and olive oils, honey, royal jelly and hyaluronic acid to soothe irritated skin and tighten pores.
Price: 1 120 rub.
Matting charcoal mask Masque Charbon, Payot
Editor’s Choice BeautyHack Natalia Kapitsa
I have dearly loved the Payot brand for several years – during this time there was not a single product that would disappoint me. The Masque Charbon mattifying mask is further proof that the brand’s craftsmanship is at “level90”.
The most delicate product with a mild, unobtrusive scent contains two main ingredients needed to care for oily skin – charcoal and kaolin. They absorb excess sebum, deeply cleanse pores and dry out minor inflammations. For me, these are the main tasks when choosing care products.
The mask spreads easily and rinses off well with water. After using the product, the skin looks healthier, smoother and more radiant.
Price: 1 319 rub.