10 mistakes in tone creation


O what shade for the skin needs to be forgotten forever, what products make us older and when the shade is inappropriate – say the leading makeup artists.

1) Foundation with a yellow undertone

Daria Iodel, top makeup artist, champion in the nomination “Creative Makeup WBF 2016”:

The most common mistake is the wrong shade of foundation. On the streets of the city, I often see girls who prefer warm, slightly yellowish products in order to look more tanned. In fact, such a tone of foundation adds age, and the face with it looks stale.

More neutral shades of porcelain and ivory are in vogue today. This tone is refreshing and creates the effect of a rested face.

Ernest Muntaniol, Chanel’s leading makeup artist in Russia:

The face is never perceived separately from the body, therefore, when choosing a shade of foundation, take into account the color of the neck, arms, hands. Otherwise, the face will visually lose its freshness.

Sergey Naumov, independent makeup artist:

Many foundations (especially those with a matting effect) become 1 (or even 2 tones!) Darker within 30-40 minutes. Therefore, choose products that are slightly lighter than your skin tone. I do just that and blend the cream on the T-zone. Then I take the color in color and apply it along the outer contour of the face. If necessary, I draw out the desired shade with powder.

2) Too dense texture for anti-age makeup

Ksenia Nikitina, founder of the Iconface professional makeup school:

Over the years, our skin holds cosmetics in a different way: an abundance of tone or matting powder highlights all imperfections and emphasizes that you are no longer young.

For women aged I recommend switching to BB and CC creams, try tinted beauty balms. My favorite CC cream is Luminessence, Armani Beauty. I recommend BB-creams Hydra Life, Dior and Hydra Sparkling Nude Look, Givenchy. For a tinted balm, contact MAC – Prep + Prime BB Beauty Balm is good for both young and aging skin. The balm is applied with fingers, has a translucent texture and is perfectly shaded.

3) Light corrector for the area around the eyes

Ernest Muntaniol, Chanel’s leading makeup artist in Russia:

There is an opinion that the corrector for the area around the eyes should be one or two shades lighter than the main tone: it will hide fatigue and refresh the look. As a result, the skin around the eyes becomes light and pale – we pay attention only to this. The pink corrector with fine, subtle shining particles that reflect and refract the light falling on them is able to refresh the face and give it a rested look.

4) Incorrect procedure

Irina Mitroshkina, independent make-up artist, co-owner of the Prive7 salon chain:

For some reason, everyone thinks that since the foundation is intended for the whole face, make-up should be started with it. I recommend that the first thing to do with the eyes – apply base, eyeshadow, eyeliner and mascara. Then spread the concealer and then tint the face. Otherwise, you will make a perfectly even tone, but your work will be in vain – funds may crumble, and you will have to start over.

5) Oily cream as a base for makeup

Irina Mitroshkina, independent make-up artist, co-owner of the Prive7 salon chain:

Many girls with dry skin think they need a very oily, nourishing cream. And the tone will not fall on him exactly – it will flow. Yes, a simple lotion will not work for you, but a light cream like Embryolisse (I talked about it here) is perfectly absorbed, moisturizes, removes dryness and prepares the skin for make-up. Yves Saint Laurent (Top Secrets Instant Moisture Glow) has the same, but with a shine effect.

6) too much powder

Olga Tomina, makeup artist:

Young girls and adolescents with problematic oily skin are often addicted to powder. No wonder they say that powder is the second enemy after the sun. For a matte finish, just buy a foundation for your skin type.

7) Dirty brushes and sponges

Victoria Goncharuk, dermatocosmetologist, specialist of the O2 aesthetic services center:

Dirty makeup tools are the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. When you apply the tone, they get on the face and cause inflammation and purulent rashes. Wash and treat brushes with disinfectant solution at least once a week.

8) Inappropriate contouring

Sergey Naumov, independent makeup artist:

To apply products of all shades of the rainbow to the face and blend them with a duo-fibra brush or a sponge, in my opinion, is possible only for filming or for photos and videos on Instagram. In real life, such a number of layers cannot be used – it looks unnatural. Makeup artists have gone from “heavy” contouring even on the set.

It’s important to remember that the trend came from Kim Kardashian, her skin tone is much darker than most Russian girls.

If you really want to emphasize facial features, use light cream correctors or foundations.

Ksenia Nikitina, founder of the Iconface professional makeup school:

Forget about gray-brown tones on the face! I call this mistake “Anastasia Volochkova”. She often puts greenish tints on the cheekbones. This dull tone ages the face, kills all the freshness. Why do you need a sculptor? With age, the skin acquires a natural shade, it is better to add the correct blush of cream and satin textures. I recommend the MAC Mineralize Blush baked cold peach shade (New Romance) – you will “shine” from the inside. I love Diorblush Cheek Stick, Dior and Le Prisme Blush, Givenchy.

9) Excessive strobing

Alexandra Kirienko, star makeup artist:

Probably, this mistake comes from the West. Girls apply the highlighter in such a way that their face shines like a pancake. Only radiant powder can be actively used – apply to the T-zone, cheekbones, nose. If you don’t have enough shine, add, with a bare touch, a highlighter on the convex part of the cheekbone. An important rule of thumb: if you have a large nose or a hump, the highlighter in this area will highlight what you are trying to hide.

Highlighters come in different shades. Warm – peach, gold, cold – silver, white. If you are back from hot countries, a warm shade will accentuate your tan. A cold shade only for snow white – on dark skin it will look gray.

10) Indiscriminate means

Ekaterina Ponomareva, chief makeup artist at MAC in Russia and the CIS:

I believe that any tool should solve a specific problem. Many women use makeup bases when they don’t need to. It’s all about the imposed opinion of non-professional consultants – this is marketing, to which we succumb so easily! Why overload the skin? She must breathe!

Consult a good beautician, get to know your specific problems and make your own action plan (list of remedies).